What are brogues?
Brogues - these are classic shoes with a flat sole or a small heel, the main distinguishing feature of which is the presence of decorative perforations (holes) and serrated edges along the seams.
Historically, these shoes originated in the 17th century among farmers in Scotland and Ireland. Initially, the perforations served a utilitarian purpose: they allowed water to drain from the boots after walking on marshy ground.
In the early 20th century, thanks to the Prince of Wales, brogues moved from the category of workwear for golfers to an elegant urban wardrobe staple. Brogueing isn't a distinct shoe style, but a decorative technique. Perforations can be applied to Oxfords, Derbies, monk straps, or Chelsea boots.
Main types
Depending on the area and location of the perforation, there are several classic types of brogues.
- Full brogues (Wingtips): They have a W-shaped (wing-shaped) toe. Perforations run along all seams, and the toe itself features a decorative pattern of holes called a "medallion."
- Semi-brogues: They feature a straight cut-off toe. Perforations are present along the seams and in the form of a medallion on the toe.
- Quarter brogues: The most formal option. They have a straight toe, perforation only along the seam edge, and no decorative medallion.
- Blind brogues (Austerity brogues): A rare variety that retains the W-shaped toe and scalloped edges, but completely lacks the holes themselves.
What to combine with
The main rule of formality when choosing such shoes is: the more perforations, the less formal they are considered. Full brogues are not worn with formal business suits.
In a women's smart-casual wardrobe, brogues complement cropped straight-leg trousers, ankle-baring chinos, and classic trench coats perfectly. The rough texture of brogues also works harmoniously in contrast with flowy midi dresses, pleated skirts, and thick tights in fall looks.
Perforated shoes have historically gravitated toward dense, textured materials. They pair well with tweed, corduroy, flannel, suede, and heavyweight, unworn denim.
