What is an armhole?
Armhole — is an anatomical or structural cutout in the bodice of a shoulder garment, intended for sewing in a sleeve or for free passage of the arm in sleeveless clothing.
This design element determines the overall fit of the garment at the shoulder girdle, freedom of arm movement, and the silhouette of the upper body. The shape, depth, and width of the armhole directly depend on the style of the garment. In tailored jackets, it precisely follows the contours of the armhole, while in oversized styles, it is significantly wider and lower.
Main types
In clothing design, there are several basic armhole shapes, each of which creates a specific silhouette of the garment:
- Set-in (classic) armhole: It closely follows the natural line of the shoulder and arm. It's used in classic suits, basic shirts, and sheath dresses.
- Raglan: It's cut along the shoulder section, creating a diagonal seam from the neckline to the armpit. It's typical for coats, trench coats, and sportswear.
- Dropped armhole: The sleeve set-in line is located below the natural shoulder joint. This creates a soft, rounded silhouette typical of oversized sweaters and T-shirts.
- American armhole: A deep diagonal cut from the armpits to the neckline, completely exposing the shoulders. It is used in summer and evening dresses, as well as tops.
- Deep (shirt or "bat"): wide armholes that reach to the waist or below, providing maximum volume in the underarm area.
How to choose
For a strict business dress code, choose a high set-in armhole. It allows you to raise your arms without distorting or lifting up the entire jacket or blouse, maintaining a clean silhouette.
Deep armholes in vests or sundresses require clever layering. Layer underneath with a fitted turtleneck, a fitted shirt, or a basic bandeau top.
When choosing outerwear to wear over bulky sweaters or jackets, raglan or dropped armholes are preferred. This design prevents restriction of movement and bunching.
Halter necklines visually narrow the shoulders and accentuate the neck. This cut requires the use of strapless or cross-back lingerie.
