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Fashion glossary

What are lapels: types, features, and role in clothing

Giulia Rossi 3 min read

What are lapels?

Lapel — this is a lapel on the chest part of an open garment (jacket, jacket, coat), which reaches the top buttons.

Read also our full guide: Clothing Details: Names for the Perfect Style
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Classic straight lapel with a visible notch and buttonhole

Structurally, this detail connects to the collar along the lapels, forming a single tailor's knot. The main function of lapels is to create a V-shaped opening. It opens up the shirt or blouse and visually elongates the silhouette.

Historically, this item of clothing originated for utilitarian reasons. Military personnel needed the ability to fold back the top of their tightly buttoned uniforms for comfort and ventilation in warm weather.

Main types of lapels

In classic clothing design, there are three basic lapel shapes. The straight, or English, lapel is considered the most common, with a characteristic wedge-shaped opening between the collar and lapel. It is the standard for single-breasted business suits and casual blazers.

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Double-breasted jacket with wide peak lapels

A peak, or French, lapel is characterized by pointed points that curve upward toward the shoulders. This shape is traditionally used on double-breasted jackets and formal suits. The sharp angles visually broaden the chest and add a more muscular appearance to the shoulders.

The shawl lapel is a continuous, rounded line with no division into a collar or lapel. This shape is typical exclusively for evening wear for both men and women, including tuxedos and formal jackets.

How to use lapels in your look

The lapel width is chosen proportionally to the figure and the cut of the garment. Narrow lapels, 5 to 7 centimeters wide, are suitable for slender builds and fitted silhouettes. Wide lapels, 9 centimeters and wider, help to balance a larger figure and are often found on oversized jackets.

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Tuxedo with shawl lapel made of smooth satin material

Men's business dress code has a strict rule for accessories. The width of the jacket lapel should match the width of the tie at its widest point.

A buttonhole is located on the left lapel of a classic suit jacket. It is used to attach a boutonniere or decorative metal pin.

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Pairing a classic lapel with a silk scarf and a cotton shirt

Lapels in contrasting materials serve as a clear marker of the Black Tie evening dress code. Satin or silk lapels on a wool or velvet jacket create a play of textures and emphasize the formality of the outfit.

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About the author

G
Giulia Rossi

Luxury fashion consultant and investment dressing expert. Understands the craftsmanship behind premium brands. Helps make informed decisions: when to invest in quality and when to save.

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