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Fashion glossary

What is a boater: history, features, and what to wear it with

Giulia Rossi 3 min read

What is a boater?

Boater — is a hard straw hat of geometric shape with a flat crown and straight brim.

Read also our full guide: Types of Headwear: A Complete Guide from a Stylist

To understand what a boater is in a historical context, it's important to know the origin of the term. The name comes from the French word canotier , which translates as "rower." Initially, in the late 19th century, this headdress was part of the summer uniform of French sailors and rowing enthusiasts.

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Classic straw boater hat with a flat crown and black grosgrain ribbon

The hat entered the women's wardrobe thanks to Coco Chanel. The designer made this simple men's accessory a symbol of new elegance, contrasting it with the bulky women's hats popular at the time, which were lavishly decorated with feathers and artificial flowers.

Distinctive features

The boater's main characteristic is its strict geometry. The hat has a completely flat cylindrical crown (top) and a straight, medium-width brim that doesn't curve or droop.

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A girl in a linen suit and a boater hat on a city street

Traditionally, the accessory is made of stiff woven straw, which holds its shape well and doesn't deform with wear. The simple decoration of a classic hat is limited to a wide grosgrain ribbon at the base of the crown. The ribbon is most often black or dark blue, sometimes complemented by a small flat bow on the side.

The boater hat's fit also has its own characteristics. The hat isn't pulled down too far onto the head; it's positioned on top, slightly to the side, or closer to the back.

What to combine with

The boater fits seamlessly into nautical style, harking back to its historical roots. The accessory pairs well with classic Breton tops, white palazzo pants, and lightweight, loose cotton shirts.

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Felt version of the boater in black with a velvet ribbon

For urban smart casual, the hat complements summer linen suits with Bermuda shorts or wide-leg trousers. Basic T-shirts, loafers, or topsiders complete the look, highlighting the hat's clean, geometric lines.

For a romantic look, boaters are paired with lightweight midi dresses (tea dresses) and sundresses in small floral prints. Classic jute wedge espadrilles are a perfect footwear choice for these outfits.

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A summer look with a straw boater, a lightweight midi dress, and a woven bag

There are boater options suitable for cooler weather. Made from thick felt, these pair perfectly with classic double-breasted trench coats, tailored straight coats, and oversized, smooth-knit sweaters.

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About the author

G
Giulia Rossi

Luxury fashion consultant and investment dressing expert. Understands the craftsmanship behind premium brands. Helps make informed decisions: when to invest in quality and when to save.

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