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Fashion glossary

What is a peplum: types, history, and styling rules

Camille Durand 3 min read

What is a basque?

Basque — is a wide frill or flounce sewn along the waistline of a dress, blouse, jacket or skirt.

Read also our full guide: Clothing Details: Names for the Perfect Style

Historically, this element originates from the traditional costume of the Basques, a people living in Spain and France, from which it takes its name. Cristóbal Balenciaga integrated the peplum into haute couture, and it gained worldwide popularity in the 1940s thanks to Christian Dior and his iconic New Look silhouette.

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An architectural peplum on a classic jacket made of thick wool fabric.

The peplum's primary function in clothing design is to visually create an hourglass silhouette. It accentuates a narrow waist and adds volume to the hips, correcting the figure's proportions.

Main types of peplum

In modern clothing design, there are several cutting options for this element:

  • Classic peplum - a soft gathered frill creates smooth volume and a romantic silhouette.
  • Architectural (structured) peplum — made from dense, shape-retaining fabrics such as wool or gabardine. Often featuring crisp pleats or a geometric cut, typical of business jackets.
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A peplum blouse paired with a fitted pencil skirt.
  • Asymmetrical peplum — a detail that's longer at the back or on one side. It visually elongates the silhouette and adds dynamism to the look.
  • Removable peplum (basque belt) — a stand-alone accessory made of leather or thick fabric. Worn over basic clothing (shirts, dresses) like a wide belt with a frill.

What to combine with

The main rule for styling peplum garments is maintaining a balance of volumes. Since the top of the silhouette flares out at the waist, the bottom should be simple and form-fitting.

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Asymmetrical peplum on a white cotton top.

Jackets and tops with peplums pair perfectly with a pencil skirt. This combination creates a classic silhouette, suitable for both business and evening wear. For casual looks, pair a peplum top with straight-leg or tapered trousers, as well as skinny jeans.

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A detachable black leather peplum belt over a basic white shirt.

It's not recommended to wear a peplum with wide palazzo pants, long maxi skirts, or full A-line silhouettes. Such combinations will add unnecessary weight to the lower half of the figure and throw off the proportions.

Classic pumps are the best footwear for peplum looks. Elegant flats with a pointed toe are also appropriate, as they help visually elongate the legs.

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About the author

C
Camille Durand

Fashion journalist with 10+ years covering Fashion Week. Analyzes trends and translates runway fashion into everyday looks. Knows the industry inside out — from backstage to brand strategies.

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