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Fashion glossary

Mermaid silhouette (godet): what it is and its cut features

Camille Durand 3 min read

What is a mermaid silhouette?

Mermaid silhouette - This is a style of dress or skirt that fits tightly from the chest or waist to the knee line (or mid-calf), and then sharply flares out at the bottom, resembling a fishtail.

Read also our full guide: Clothing Silhouettes: Secrets to the Perfect Fit from a Stylist

In professional terminology, the term “godet” (from the French) is often used Godet ). Originally, this was the name given to the triangular wedges of fabric that were sewn into the bottom of a straight skirt to create the characteristic flare.

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Godet cut details: set-in triangular wedges that create a wider hem

The style became popular in the 1930s thanks to French fashion designer Madeleine Vionnet. In the 1950s, Christian Dior cemented its status as an eveningwear classic. Historically, this silhouette has been associated with strict formal dress codes (Black Tie, White Tie) and is one of the most sought-after options in wedding fashion.

Distinctive features of the godet cut

There are two main ways to create a voluminous hem. The first is a classic godet with set-in triangular wedges. The second is using one-piece pieces that flare out at the bottom.

The silhouette creates a sharp accent at the hips and knees. It visually accentuates the figure's curves, creating a sharp contrast between the narrow top and the full bottom.

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A mermaid-style evening dress with a contrasting transition from the fitted top to the voluminous train.

Mermaid evening dresses are made with dense, shape-retaining fabrics such as mikado, taffeta, heavy satin, or brocade. The fullness of the hem is often supported by a multi-layered tulle underskirt.

Everyday midi-length godet skirts feature softer, more flexible materials. Silk, viscose, denim, fine wool, or thick knits create a flowing effect as you walk.

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Casual denim godet midi skirt

How to Wear Mermaid Dresses and Skirts

Long mermaid-style evening dresses call for high heels. Classic pumps or sandals visually elongate the figure and balance out the voluminous hemline.

Everyday midi-length godet skirts pair harmoniously with voluminous tops: chunky knit sweaters, loose straight-cut jackets, or oversized shirts. This helps balance out the fitted bottoms.

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Styling a silk mermaid skirt with an oversized sweater and thigh-high boots

In the fall and winter, godet skirts made of thick fabrics (wool, tweed) are paired with high tube boots. The boot shaft should extend under the hem of the skirt to avoid breaking the vertical line of the silhouette.

For summer looks, silk or viscose godet skirts are styled with basic tees and lingerie-style tops. Mules, thin-strap sandals, or classic sneakers are perfect footwear options for these ensembles.

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About the author

C
Camille Durand

Fashion journalist with 10+ years covering Fashion Week. Analyzes trends and translates runway fashion into everyday looks. Knows the industry inside out — from backstage to brand strategies.

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