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Fashion glossary

What is a pea coat: its cut and what to wear it with

Camille Durand 3 min read

What is a pea coat?

Pea jacket — is a short, double-breasted coat of a straight cut, traditionally made from dense, heavy wool (melton).

Read also our full guide: Types of outerwear: putting together a demi-season base
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A classic pea coat in heavy dark blue wool with wide lapels and engraved buttons.

Historically, the pea coat (known in English as pea coat ) served as the standard outerwear for naval sailors in European and American navies in the 18th and 19th centuries. Its dense fabric and specific cut were designed to provide reliable protection from the piercing sea wind and cold.

In the 20th century, this element of military uniform became a staple of men's wardrobes. Later, the pea coat was adapted for women's fashion, becoming a versatile and practical everyday outerwear item.

Distinctive features

The pea coat's design is dictated by its original utilitarian purpose. Modern models retain most of the historical details.

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A women's dark blue straight-cut pea coat featuring a strict double-breasted silhouette.
  • Double-breasted cut: Two rows of buttons and a wide flap provide additional protection for the chest from the cold.
  • Wide turn-down collar and large lapels: When raised, they are able to completely cover the neck and cheeks from the wind.
  • Specific fittings: Traditionally, large flat buttons (wooden, metal or plastic) are used, often engraved with an anchor.
  • Pockets: Vertical or slightly slanted slit pockets are located at chest or waist level, as they were originally intended to warm hands.
  • Material and color: The classic naval pea coat is made of thick wool in navy blue. Modern versions also come in black, gray, camel, and other colors.

What to combine with

The pea coat easily integrates into various stylistic trends thanks to its laconic and strict cut.

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An alternative version of the pea coat in a camel shade with contrasting horn buttons.
  • Smart Casual Style: The coat looks harmonious with straight or wide trousers with creases, a cashmere turtleneck and leather loafers with a chunky sole.
  • Everyday look: A classic combination includes straight-leg blue jeans, a chunky knit sweater, and flat shoes—Chelsea boots or chunky lace-up models.
  • Playing on contrasts: The masculine cut is effectively balanced by feminine pieces. The pea coat is worn over a midi slip dress or a flowing pleated skirt paired with high boots.
  • Layering: The straight and slightly loose silhouette allows you to wear a structured jacket or a thick wool cardigan under your outerwear.
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A casual look with a black pea coat, light turtleneck, straight jeans and Chelsea boots.

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About the author

C
Camille Durand

Fashion journalist with 10+ years covering Fashion Week. Analyzes trends and translates runway fashion into everyday looks. Knows the industry inside out — from backstage to brand strategies.

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