What is a pied-de-poul?
Houndstooth (pie de poule) — is a classic two-color geometric pattern, representing a broken cell or abstract four-pointed figures linked together.
The pattern originated in Scotland in the 19th century as a method of weaving dense woolen fabric for warm shepherds' clothing. In French, the print is called pied-de-poule (chicken's foot), and in English, houndstooth. These terms refer to the pattern's visual resemblance to bird paw prints or dog fangs.
The pattern entered high fashion thanks to Christian Dior in the 1940s and 1950s. The designer actively used houndstooth checks in his collections, making them a symbol of elegance and classic style.
Main types of printing
The traditional ornament has several variations, differing in size and color scheme.
- Classic houndstooth: A medium-sized pattern traditionally done in black and white on heavy wool and tweed fabrics.
- Pepita (puppytooth): A micro-version of the print. From a distance, the small pattern merges into a single textured background, making it often used on men's jackets and formal business suits.
- Macro print (giant houndstooth): A hypertrophied, exaggerated pattern. In modern collections, it's used to create statement coats, voluminous cardigans, and wide scarves.
- Color variations: Contemporary interpretations are moving away from strict monochrome. Designers are offering combinations of red and black, brown and beige, and pastel shades.
What to wear with houndstooth print
The black and white houndstooth print fits harmoniously into the monochrome base. The houndstooth jacket easily pairs with solid pieces in the same colors—for example, a black turtleneck and straight-leg trousers.
The classic print serves as a crisp backdrop for a single, rich color. The look can be complemented with a bright accent: a red bag, an emerald silk scarf, or fuchsia shoes.
To tone down formality, a structured tweed jacket with a pied-de-poule pattern is paired with casual pieces. Straight-leg blue jeans and a basic white T-shirt are the perfect pairing. The pattern also plays beautifully with textures. Thick wool or houndstooth tweed pairs well with smooth materials like genuine leather, flowing silk, or heavy satin.
