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Fashion glossary

Tartan - what kind of fabric is it, its types, and what to wear it with

Giulia Rossi 3 min read

What is tartan?

Tartan — a fabric with a pattern of horizontal and vertical stripes intersecting at right angles, forming rectangular patterns. Historically, it is a dense twill weave fabric that originated in Scotland. Unique color combinations and stripe widths, called setts, served as distinctive marks for specific Scottish clans, families, and regions.

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Traditional tartan fabric in twill weave with Royal Stewart pattern

Today, the classic geometric print has migrated from traditional wool clothing to mass fashion. It is actively used for suits, skirts, shirts, and accessories, not only in wool but also in cotton, silk, and various blended fabrics.

Main types of tartan

There are many historical and modern variations of this pattern. Several classic styles have become firmly established in everyday fashion:

  • Royal Stewart — the world's most recognizable red tartan, with its contrasting blue, yellow, white, and green stripes. Historically, this pattern belonged to the Scottish royal family.
  • Black Watch — a dark and restrained pattern in deep blue-green-black tones, originally created for the military uniform of the Scottish regiment of the same name.
  • Burberry (Burberry Check / Nova Check) — an iconic commercial tartan with a sandy beige background crossed with black, white and red lines.
  • Dress Gordon — a smart version of the checkered pattern, where green, dark blue and white colours dominate, with subtle yellow accents.
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Black Watch dark check jacket paired with a black turtleneck and trousers

What to combine with

The basic rule for styling tartan is based on visual balance. A patterned accent piece, such as a pleated skirt or jacket, pairs best with solid neutrals—a black turtleneck, a white shirt, or a gray jumper.

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Classic pleated midi skirt in beige check

Straight-leg trousers or a two-piece suit in a muted Black Watch tartan easily integrate into a business look. This ensemble is complemented by classic leather shoes, such as oxfords or loafers, and clean, minimalist accessories.

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A casual look with a red flannel shirt, a basic tee and jeans

For a casual and grunge-inspired look, try a Royal Stewart red check flannel shirt. Wear it unbuttoned over a basic white T-shirt, paired with blue denim and chunky lace-up boots.

Tartan scarves, stoles, or bags are used to add geometric and color contrast to monochrome looks. These accessories look harmonious when paired with a classic beige trench coat or a crisp black coat.

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About the author

G
Giulia Rossi

Luxury fashion consultant and investment dressing expert. Understands the craftsmanship behind premium brands. Helps make informed decisions: when to invest in quality and when to save.

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