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Fashion glossary

Chesterfield coat: what it is and its style features

Daryna Marchenko 3 min read

What is a Chesterfield?

Chesterfield coat — this is a classic outerwear item of straight or semi-fitted cut, historically considered the standard of strict business style.

Read also our full guide: Types of outerwear: putting together a demi-season base
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A classic Chesterfield coat in herringbone tweed with a contrast velvet collar.

The style originated in Great Britain in the mid-19th century. It was named after George Stanhope, 6th Earl of Chesterfield, who first wore a similar coat over a suit. Initially, the Chesterfield was exclusively a formal men's wardrobe item. In the 20th century, this silhouette was naturally adapted for women's classic fashion.

The traditional length of the garment reaches to the knee or falls slightly below. This proportion allows for the hem of a jacket or blazer to be completely covered, maintaining the neatness of a layered ensemble.

Distinctive features

The cut and detailing of the Chesterfield have remained unchanged for a century and a half. The main and most recognizable detail is the velvet collar. It is most often crafted in a contrasting black, navy blue, or brown to the base fabric.

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A sand-colored women's Chesterfield coat paired with a formal business suit.

Classic models feature a hidden button placket. A special placket conceals the buttons, creating a minimalist and streamlined silhouette. Furthermore, the coat is cut in one piece, without a horizontal seam at the waist, visually elongating the figure and maintaining clean vertical lines.

The front panels feature horizontal slit pockets with flaps. On the right side, they are often complemented by a small ticket pocket. Traditionally, the Chesterfield is made of dense, heavy wool, cashmere, or herringbone tweed.

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A modern take on the Chesterfield: a double-breasted design in navy blue with a velvet collar.

What to combine with

In business formal attire, the Chesterfield coat is the perfect complement to tailored pantsuits, pencil skirts, and sheath dresses. The coat's straight cut maintains a high-status, formal look without adding bulk.

For a smart-casual look, the austerity of the garment is balanced with everyday essentials. Pair the Chesterfield with straight-leg, unworn jeans, cashmere turtlenecks, and flat shoes like leather loafers or Chelsea boots.

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Smart-casual look: Chesterfield coat with straight jeans, a turtleneck and Chelsea boots.

Thanks to its aristocratic origins and velvet details, this coat looks appropriate over evening dresses or tuxedos. The look is best completed with simple leather gloves, structured, rigid bags, and silk scarves.

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About the author

D
Daryna Marchenko

Certified color analyst and image consultant. Combines knowledge from art and fashion to help women discover their ideal colors. Author of a rapid color typing methodology.

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