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Fashion glossary

Denim: What is this fabric, types of material, and what to wear it with

Isabella García 3 min read

What is denim?

Denim — is a dense cotton fabric with a twill weave, traditionally used to make jeans and casual clothing.

Read also our full guide: Fabric Types: How Composition Decides Everything About Your Style

The name of the material comes from the French phrase "serge de Nîmes," which translates as "fabric from the city of Nîmes." Initially, in the 19th century, this durable material was used to create wearable work uniforms.

The key technological feature of denim is its diagonal twill weave. During the weaving process, only the warp thread, traditionally dyed with indigo, is dyed. The weft thread remains undyed. This gives the fabric its characteristic white reverse side and the ability to fade beautifully at the folds with wear.

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A close-up of denim with a diagonal twill weave, white backing and selvedge edge.

Main types

Raw (or dry) denim It's a stiff, deep blue fabric that's unwashable after dyeing. Over time, the material adapts to the wearer's figure and develops a distinctive, natural abrasion pattern known as fading.

Selvedge denim It is created on vintage shuttle looms. Its distinctive feature is a dense, fray-resistant edge with woven colored thread, most often red. This material is considered a premium fabric.

Stretch denim It's a classic cotton base with 1-3% elastane or spandex added. Synthetic fibers ensure a comfortable fit and prevent stretching at the knees.

Chambray It's a visual analogue of denim. It's a lighter, thinner cotton fabric with a plain weave, used for summer shirts, skirts, and dresses.

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A chambray shirt dress is a lighter, thinner alternative to classic denim.

What to combine with

Total look (Canadian tuxedo) This involves wearing multiple denim pieces in one outfit. The classic rule is to combine different shades (for example, a light blue shirt and dark blue jeans) or match tone-on-tone pieces to create a one-piece look.

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Double denim look: light blue denim jacket paired with dark blue jeans

In style smart casual Straight-leg or wide-leg jeans in a solid dark color (without any fraying or rips) form the foundation of the look. They're paired with a structured wool blazer, a sleek turtleneck, and leather loafers.

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Smart casual outfit featuring indigo straight-leg jeans, a white shirt and a navy blazer

Contrast of textures The collection is built on a combination of dense, coarse cotton and delicate fabrics. A denim jacket is worn over a silk slip dress, and classic blue jeans are paired with a textured tweed jacket or lace blouse.

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About the author

I
Isabella García

Personal stylist specializing in occasion dressing. Dress code expert — from casual office style to formal events. Believes the right outfit can transform your mood and confidence.

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