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Fashion glossary

Over-the-knee boots: what they are, types, and what to wear them with

Olena Kovalenko 3 min read

What are over-the-knee boots?

Thigh-high boots - This is a type of boot with high shafts that completely cover the kneecap and reach to the lower third of the thigh or higher.

Read also our full guide: Types of Women's Shoes: Why the Old Rules Don't Work
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Classic black suede over-the-knee boots with a zipper on the inside of the shaft

Historically, jackboots appeared in the 17th century as part of cavalry uniforms. The stiff, high shaft (flare) protected the rider's joints and prevented them from bending during prolonged periods in the saddle.

Over-the-knee boots entered women's fashion in the 1960s, thanks to designers Yves Saint Laurent and Roger Vivier. They became a symbol of emancipation and a fitting complement to the miniskirts that were then popular.

Main types

Modern models differ in the design of the shaft, materials and type of sole.

  • Over-the-knee boots: Tight-fitting boots. They are made of stretch suede, soft leather, or fabric. These models often have no zippers and are put on like stockings.
  • Pipe boots: Models with a wide, straight shaft that doesn't cling to the leg. They hold their shape well from the ankle to the thigh.
  • Models with lacing: Over-the-knee boots decorated with corset lacing at the front or back along the entire length of the bootleg.
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Tight leather over-the-knee boots paired with a voluminous sweater dress

Sole options also vary. Over-the-knee boots come in flat (jockey style), chunky tractor soles, stable block heels, or classic stilettos.

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Over-the-knee boots with a wide shaft made of brown leather and a stable heel

What to combine with

The height of the shaft requires proportions when creating an outfit. Over-the-knee boots can be paired with both short and long pieces.

  • With mini length: A classic pairing with miniskirts, shorts, or short dresses. Between the hem of the garment and the top of the boot, there's a strip of exposed leg or tights, ideally 10–15 centimeters wide.
  • With a voluminous top: Tight-fitting over-the-knee boots are harmoniously balanced by oversized sweater dresses, voluminous hoodies, or long, menswear-style jackets.
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Burgundy suede over-the-knee boots worn under a deep-slit midi skirt
  • With midi length: Straight, wide over-the-knee boots are worn under midi-length skirts and dresses (especially those with slits). This creates a continuous vertical line with no gaps between the shoe and the hem.
  • With skinny pants: Over-the-knee boots with a wide shaft can be worn over leggings or skinny jeans, which evokes a classic jockey style.

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About the author

O
Olena Kovalenko

Stylist with 14 years of experience. Specializes in capsule wardrobes and seasonal style transitions. Has helped over 500 women find their personal style and dress with confidence every day.

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